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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Tasting 2009, 2017 & 2020
A technical tasting review of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: the 2009 reds, Romanée-Conti 2017, and the 2020 white Grands Crus.
I was recently invited to host an exclusive tasting of Grand Cru wines for a group of VIP clients, focusing on one of the most prestigious estates in viticultural history: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Far from the myths and the speculation that often surround these bottles, my objective was to provide a rigorous, objective analysis of how these terroirs express themselves today, comparing the evolution of the solar 2009 vintage, the intermediate maturity of a 2017 icon, and the distinct profile of the 2020 whites. This tasting took place across two sessions: the Richebourg 2009 and La Tâche 2009 were tasted on Saturday, June 13th, around our tasting table at Sensation Vin in Beaune, while the remaining five wines were tasted on Monday, June 15th, facing the vineyards of Vosne-Romanée.
Here is a technical review of the wines tasted.
The 2009 vintage profile: 17 years of cellar growth
The 2009 vintage in Burgundy is widely remembered as a warm, solar year that produced rich grapes with mature tannins and moderate acidities. Seventeen years later, the question for collectors is whether these wines have retained their balance or surrendered to heaviness. The tasting proved that the estate's strict yield management allowed these terroirs to preserve their core identity despite the heat of the vintage.
Grands-Echezeaux 2009
The color shows a distinct orange-brown hue with minor suspended particles. On the nose, it immediately delivers notes of stewed fruits complemented by subtle smoky and spicy undertones. On the palate, the attack is remarkably round, but the tannins build up progressively, revealing a wine that remains densely structured. Surprisingly, this bottle showed a more youthful and robust backbone than the other 2009s in the tasting.
Romanée-Saint-Vivant 2009
Displaying characteristic orange highlights, the nose reveals a more advanced evolutionary profile than its peers, dominated by noble notes of smoked wood, spices, forest floor, and wild mushrooms. While the palate retains the vintage's signature roundness and well-integrated acidity, the tannins turn firmer and slightly drying on the finish. Within this 2009 lineup, it emerges as the least harmonious at this stage of its evolution.
Richebourg 2009
The appearance features orange-brown reflections typical of a 17-year-old Pinot Noir from a warm year. The bouquet is complex and persistent, blending stewed fruit characters with smokiness and spices. The palate is highly consistent, offering seamless roundness from the entry to the finish. With perfectly mastered acidity and remarkably silky tannins, it concludes on an ethereal sensation with immense length.
La Tâche 2009
Slightly deeper in color than the Richebourg but sharing the same orange-brown maturity tones. The nose is immediate and expressive, driven by notes of smoke, tobacco, mild coffee, and sweet spices. On the palate, La Tâche displays a more massive, powerful structure than the Richebourg. The rich mid-palate is framed by deeply coated tannins that become slightly more prominent and assertive on the finish.
The counterpoint: Romanée-Conti 2017
Introducing a younger vintage into the red wine tasting highlighted the profound impact of vintage variation.
Romanée-Conti 2017
The wine shows excellent clarity with subtle orange glints signaling the beginning of its maturation. The nose is exceptionally refined, dominated by aromas of fresh sour cherry, a subtle hint of wood, and elegant roasted, smoky, and spicy notes. On the palate, it opens with superb roundness, where extremely silky tannins blend perfectly with a fine, light acidity. The finish is long, culminating in absolute harmony and elegance.
The white Grands Crus: analyzing the 2020 vintage
The 2020 vintage for Burgundy whites represents a rare paradox: a hot, dry summer that nevertheless allowed the grapes to retain a remarkable freshness.
Corton Charlemagne 2020
The wine presents a deep golden color, reflecting the natural concentration of the vintage. The nose is opulent, opening with dominant aromas of honey, mead, and highly ripe yellow-fleshed fruits, before revealing a well-integrated, toasted oak character. The palate is powerful, successfully balancing structural roundness with a nice, driving acidity.
Montrachet 2020
In comparison, Montrachet shows a fresher, less stewed aromatic profile. It expresses itself through white-fleshed fruit (such as pear) alongside sophisticated, savory notes of brioche, fresh butter, and toasted hazelnut. On the palate, the wine delivers absolute opulence without a single hint of heaviness. Rich and mouth-coating, it expands effortlessly across the palate and lingers into an incredibly long, resonant finish.
Evaluating these bottles outside of commercial hype allows us to appreciate what truly makes these vineyards legendary: an uncompromising ability to translate terroir and vintage variations into textures of pure precision.
Tastings like this one are, by nature, rare. But they don't have to remain out of reach. If you would like to explore Burgundy's finest terroirs in a private session, feel free to get in touch.
Céline Dandelot - Wine Expert & Educator, Vinopedagogue since 2002 - Beaune, Burgundy